A Legacy Walk on the Milford Track: Retracing an 1889 Journey
For many people, the Milford Track is one of New Zealand's most iconic Great Walks. For cousins Jenny Harris and Nicola Spicer, it became something far more personal, a legacy journey retracing the footsteps of their ancestor, Ella Spicer (née Adams), who is believed to have been one of the first women to walk the Milford Track in 1889.
More than 130 years later, Jenny and Nicola followed Ella's route through Fiordland, connecting with their family history and gaining a deeper appreciation for her remarkable achievement. Their journey also honoured Ella's father, Charles Adams, an early surveyor who worked on the track and surveyed Sutherland Falls.
For Jenny, Ella's story had been part of her family history since childhood. Together, the cousins set out to experience the landscapes that shaped their ancestors' lives and stand in places that still hold special significance to their family. We spoke with Jenny about the experience and what it meant to retrace those historic footsteps.
Can you tell us about your great-grandmother, Ella?
Ella Spicer (née Adams) was the grandmother of my (Jenny) mother and Nicola's father. My mother remembers her as a strong, somewhat gruff woman, with a memorable presence. One childhood moment stands out: when Mum was four years old, Ella taught her how to tie her shoes. After demonstrating twice, Ella declared that was enough and refused to show her again. It became a defining memory.
Later in life, Ella became a painter, creating beautiful deep-watercolour landscapes of New Zealand. She had three children, King, St John (my grandfather), and Peggy. Peggy went on to become a well-known New Zealand artist, recognised for her paintings of early New Zealand architecture. Art and resilience clearly run through the generations.
Jenny and Nicola about to set off on their legacy walk on the Milford Track
How did you first learn about her Milford Track journey?
When I was about ten, I wrote a speech about my family, and Ella’s story featured in it. Her experience walking the Milford Track stayed with me from that moment.
Later, my grandmother published family memoirs that included Ella’s own account of her journey. Reading her diary entries in her own words, describing the Milford Track in 1889, was incredibly powerful. It gave me a direct connection to history.
Ella's diary entry when she walked the Milford Track
Why was it important to revisit this part of the Milford Track history?
I have carried this story with me for the majority of my life and now after walking the track myself, I understand just how extraordinary Ella’s journey was.
She was a young girl accompanying her father on a demanding expedition at a time when women did not yet have the vote. Although she had brothers, she was chosen for this journey. That alone speaks volumes.
Ella deserves recognition as the first Pākehā women to walk the Milford Track at just 13 years of age. Her story is an important part of the track’s early history.
Are there diary moments that particularly stayed with you?
Several. Her description of rats running over her while she slept, and requesting canvas to cover her face at night, highlights the reality of the conditions in 1889.
I was also struck by her observations of the weka and robins. She described the birdlife as friendly and abundant. Walking the Milford Track today, I was overwhelmed by how much native bird song I heard on track, which made her words feel alive.
Her account also includes encounters with early explorers such as Donald Sutherland and Quintin Mckinnon, appearing as real figures in her narrative, something remarkable to read in a first-hand account.
Jenny and Nicola at Lake Ella
What was it like retracing her journey?
It felt deeply emotional and grounding. On track, I felt strongly connected to my family history.
Reaching Lake Ella on McKinnon Pass was especially meaningful. Standing there, imagining her as a thirteen-year-old crossing that same alpine landscape in 1889, was overwhelming. At that moment, when I checked my phone, it was 11:11, which added a small personal significance for myself and Nicola. We walked to Lake Ella and touched the waters. I would have swum in it if I hadn’t had a terrible case of tonsillitis brewing!
Thinking about her completing the Milford Track in petticoats and handmade shoes is almost impossible to comprehend today.
Did anything surprise you during the walk?
The infrastructure on the track today, bridges, steps, maintained paths, made me reflect on how much harder the journey would have been in her time.
Reading her descriptions of avalanches and the sound keeping her awake, then walking through similar terrain ourselves, gave us a deeper appreciation of the environment and its power.
How did your experience compare with the diary?
We carried a copy of her diary and read sections as we progressed along the Milford Track. Since she walked in the opposite direction, finding references that aligned with our route felt special.
For example, she described the abundance of weka at Glade House, and seeing my first weka there created a direct connection to her experience. Passing through the avalanche paths and reading her descriptions of the sound of avalanches keeping her awake at night and hindering her journey really gave us a depth of perspective that we didn’t have before.
Jenny ascending Mackinnon Pass
What do you think she would feel about the Milford Track today?
I believe she would be proud that the journey she completed as a child is now one of New Zealand’s most popular Great Walks.
She would likely appreciate how far women’s rights have progressed and feel honoured that her story continues to be shared.
What does this legacy walk mean to you personally?
This experience was a pilgrimage, a way of connecting with my ancestors and understanding where I come from, made all the more special experiencing it with Nicola.
As a painter, I feel inspired by landscapes, and the Milford Track resonates deeply with me, much like it did with Ella. Seeing her watercolours alongside the real scenery feels like a conversation across generations.
This journey has strengthened my sense of capability and connection. Walking in her footsteps showed me what is possible and reminded me of the extraordinary people in my family history.
Lake Ella, in particular, was a powerful moment, standing there, with a rainbow appearing above the tarn, felt unforgettable.
Any final reflections?
This experience has been life changing. It has taught us both just how capable we are. It transformed the Milford Track from a world-famous Great Walk into something profoundly personal. Together, we retraced the footsteps of an extraordinary ancestor, connecting our family history with the landscapes of Fiordland and gaining a deeper appreciation for Ella's remarkable journey. More than 130 years later, Ella's story continues to inspire new generations of our family, proving that some journeys leave a legacy far beyond the track itself.
Jane has walked with Ultimate Hikes six times, returning again and again to the Milford and Routeburn Tracks. In this personal profile, she shares powerful memories, family milestones and why these guided walks continue to shape some of the most meaningful moments of her life.
From forest trails to glacial rivers and towering peaks, explore the Milford Track on foot, by boat, and from the sky with Ultimate Hikes’ expert guides and comfortable lodges.
Take a helicopter transfer direct from Milford Sound to Queenstown after your cruise. Approx. 30 minutes, weather-dependent, with direct route and great views.
